One of the things I decided a few years ago when times were really tough was that never again would I work for clients that I didn't like. When one is making furniture to commission, one is invariable working for somebody in particular and unless that person is in tune with you and your particular way of working, you are not going to give them of your best. The converse of this is that working for people that inspire you with their trust and confidence is indeed an uplifting and a privileged position.
One such client who came to our recent London exhibition, buzzed around the show and took me off to lunch and then said 'That was a wonderful desk you made I'd love you to make me one just like it but I have got to wait until I move house. In the meantime would you just make me a hat stand.'
'Er, yes of course Maggie'. I should point out that over the past few years I have made several pieces of furniture for Maggie and got to know her quite well. It's a mark of the confidence I had in our relationship that whilst we were talking, I did something I very rarely do, which was doodle an idea down literally on the back of a paper napkin and it's that idea that very much forms the basis for the rather exotic piece of furniture that we were to make for her.
My idea was that this hat stand would be very organic. The dark red stems would emerge from a pale pink pearwood base and rise 5 or 6 dark red laminated rosewood stems that would each finish off with a grand carved flower or leaf form. The leaf forms will provide the clothes hooks and the base would give the brolly stand. The whole piece would be wall hung. This was essential as the piece would essentially be top heavy, especially when laden with wet and heavy overcoats and this enabled us to overcome any problems of stability whilst enabling me to keep the piece light and sexy.
We began the job by picking out some especially good Rosewood. Nick Chandler, who made this piece for me, was very anxious that we got perfect laminations with no visible glue lines. We achieved this by first resawing the 2 in board into 2.5 mm laminations. Each laminate had one sawn side and one side from the planer. Nick was very careful to keep the laminations in sequence. We then took them off to a local workshop and bought time on a thicknessing sander. This is a wonderful machine that will sand components to a uniform thickness of incredible accuracy. It would be silly for a workshop like ours to have one of these machines. They are large, expensive and require a dust extraction system that draws so much power that it dims the lights in neighbouring buildings but it's wonderful to know that it's there should we need to buy time for using it.
Once the laminates were made we went for the big bend. I had decided that all five stems could be made from one former. This was a simple MDF shape that we bent the laminates around when the glue was still wet. We could have used two or three different shapes or even gone to the extreme of using five different moulds but I thought that there was going to be so much variation and so many new curves going on in this piece that it would lend the piece some structure to make each of the stems using the same mould and create a little visual tension by working against this similarity of shape. It's almost as if one was given the freedom to use any shape in the world and one chooses the discipline of not doing this but working within a restricted visual language. There is also here a matter of economy. I have chosen to use Rosewood because I wanted these stems to be thin and spare but at the same time knew that they would have to be relatively stiff to support the weight of soggy, wet clothing. Rosewood is one of those timbers that has immense tensile strength and enables one to work these thin shapes without to much spring back.
Nick and I had worried about the laminating because it was Rosewood. Would the laminates be too stiff; could we get the glue line to hold; could we get the invisible glue line. We fussed and worried like a pair of silly old women because I suppose that's what cabinet makers do when they want something to be just so. We worried about what glue we should use. Should we try an epoxy system like the West System. We didn't want to use Cascomite because it was really too brittle, so eventually we came back to good old PVA and used Evostick Waterproof PVA, which I must say has given us an exceptionally good result. We were able to apply the glue over all 8 laminations giving an even coat to both surfaces, using a small lambswool roller that spread the glue fast and very evenly. These are not specialist equipment but an adaptation of a small roller used for painting the backs of radiators and available from any good DIY shed. We use these any time we have to put on a lot of glue evenly over a wide area very very quickly. Once the glue was on it was a matter of quickly putting it on the mould and banging on the cramps as fast as we could. Here we used a clamping system that starts at one end and bends the job around the curve. Final tension down on to the mould is achieved by wedging each individual cramp with a small wedge and hammering it home. Did Nick achieve perfect glue lines - you bet he did.
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